I Just recently bought my first E-body. Yeah! I have had A-bodies and B-bodies in the past and had pretty much given up on finding a decent E-body for a reasonable price. Mine is a 1974 'CUDA with a 318 and it is very much original with 38,000 miles. I usually like my cars to look mostly original with minor improvements and changes much like we did in the late '60s and early '70s. This 'CUDA had been sitting in a garage for over 20 years so needs some work. The engine is showing low compression in two of the cylinders and will therefore need to come out. I have another recently built small block that I would like to use. No more originality, though. Decisions...Decisions!
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- Thread starter LA390
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340challconvert
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LA 
to FEBO from New Jersey
Congrats on your first ebody Cuda
Only 38K mileage.
I too am a mostly original kind of guy!
How about some pics
to FEBO from New JerseyCongrats on your first ebody Cuda
Only 38K mileage.
I too am a mostly original kind of guy!
How about some pics
Thanks. I will post some pics eventually. It's FK5 burnt orange, white stripe and black interior. The body is solid and original but needs engine help or replacement. I put in a new radiator, water pump, fuel pump, carb, distributor cap and wires, rotor, ballast resistor, etc. But the old 318 just doesn't want to run very well. I found that a couple of cylinders have a leak down when I checked compression.
challenger6pak
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Welcome. Are you looking to build a 390 out of your 318?
DetMatt1
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Welcome to the site from the Motor City!
Chryco Psycho
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Welcome from Panama !
Cuda Hunter
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Sounds like a sweet vehicle.
Keep the 318! that is if it's the original numbers block.
Keep the 318! that is if it's the original numbers block.
Thanks, All of you. The 318 is original to the car. Numbers matching. But It doesn't run right and I have a fresh 390 (318 stroker) The car was sitting in a garage for over 20 years. So the original 318 starts and idles but as soon as I give it a little throttle it acts like it runs out of fuel and stalls. I replaced the fuel pump, water pump, ballast resistor, plugs, wires, Fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, EGR valve, the 2 barrel carburater, Radiator, and electronic ignition box. Nothing helped so I hooked up an electric fuel pump and bypassed the factory fuel line and filter. It didn't work so I Checked the timing and it was off about 3 degrees so I adjusted it. I checked compression and all cylinders are between 145psi and 165psi, which I thought was a little high for a stock 318. Went back to mechanical fuel pump and checked fuel pressure (7 psi). I blew out the factory fuel line and hooked that back up. Still no improvment. Vacuum at idle is 16 to 17 hg. It goes up to about 25hg with throttle pushed then stalls. I took the top of the new carb apart to check float level and it is good. So after all that I figured "Why waste any more time. Just pull it out and put the 390 in".
I just got my 390 back from the builder. I am not skilled enough to have built it myself. It was going to be a budget build but went over. Budgets are nice on paper. I used a 1970 318 block, .030 over bore. and ported "J" 340 heads, 2.02 intake valves, (which probably won't help much over the stock 1.88's with the 3.940 bore). A hydraulic roller cam with .545 lift on both and 228 degrees @ .050 from Cam Motion, for street ability. Also an Eagle 4" crank and Eagle H beam rods, Adjustable roller rockers, a Torker II intake and a Holley Street Avenger 750 carb. It was run on the dyno and produced 393 hp at 5400 rpm and 444 ft lbs of torque at around 3200rpm.
moparlee
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Welcome aboard from Michigan. That's going to be a fun 318.
R4Sedan
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Welcome, Aboard.
Thanks. I am from Southwestern PA. Not far from Pittsburgh.
I was hoping to keep the car all original except for little stuff like hoses, clamps, distributer cap, and of course wheels and tires. But I can be happy with more horses under the hood, too.
I will have to figure out a new exhaust system. I am thinking of using factory 1971 340 exhaust manifolds instead of headers.
Thank You
340challconvert
Well-Known Member
Just a thought; I would keep the original engine in storage (on a pallet, oiled and covered). Always good to do. I have made that mistake myself in the past!
moparleo
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aboard . How about the rest of the running gear ? Going to need better brakes, shocks, springs, . What is in the rear. On a 318 it could be a 7 1/4, 8 3/4 . 714,742 pinion. At that age, replace the gas tank, fuel sender/pick-up and lines. Parts are so cheap now that for a few hundred dollars you can replace the entire fuel system. It's only fifty years old now. The biggest problem on our old Mopars are electrical issues. Check and clean all grounds and sockets. Use dielectric grease to seal all connections. Inspect the firewall junction box for corrosion, evidence of overheated or burnt wiring. remember that if you don't have a good electrical system you will be chasing your tail in the future. Have fun, we are here to assist if needed.Thanks for the advice.
The rear is an 8 3/4, so that is good. I have not yet dropped the tank but I plan to. I have blown out the fuel line. I will probably need to upgrade that. I have been inspecting the fuse block and wiring. As far as rubber hoses go I have replaced some. Auto Parts Stores seem to have poor quality hoses as compared to original.
The rear is an 8 3/4, so that is good. I have not yet dropped the tank but I plan to. I have blown out the fuel line. I will probably need to upgrade that. I have been inspecting the fuse block and wiring. As far as rubber hoses go I have replaced some. Auto Parts Stores seem to have poor quality hoses as compared to original.
