71 Challenger restoration

[moparmaniac10]

Well I am starting this kind of late in the build. Here are some pics of my 71 Challenger. I had already done all the metal work including floors, trunk floor, trunk gutters, dutchman panel, and rear quarters. Once all the metal was welded in and ground down, I leaded all of the seams and just had to do a smooth coat for any small waves, or low spots. Once that was done, the car was 2k primed, blocked, polyester primed, blocked, 2k primed again, blocked, and finally sealed with white sealer. Then the green was laid down with 4 coats, and 5 coats of clear was applied, and then blocked down. Now I am putting the body back together.

 

[moparmaniac10]

All the pictures are rotated for some reason. They are not rotated like this when they were saved. Not sure what the problem is.

 

[rbbruno3]

Looking nice

 

[moparlee]

That's going to be a great looking '71. Are you putting it back to original? What engine is going to bolt to that 4 spd?

 

[ramenth]

All the pictures are rotated for some reason. They are not rotated like this when they were saved. Not sure what the problem is.

Give me a little while and I'll edit the post so that all the pics are upright.

Love to looks of the paint. Really pops

 

[moparmaniac10]

That's going to be a great looking '71. Are you putting it back to original? What engine is going to bolt to that 4 spd?

It is not an original car. I bought a /6 3 speed car that already had a 318 in it cause it was cheaper and so I could build it the way I wanted it. I have always wanted a 71 Challenger since before I could drive and I always wanted a Sassy Grass Green one. I am building a 440 4 speed car the way I want and of course an original 440 4 speed in Sassy Grass Green would cost more than my house. Besides, I have an all original 340 rallye Charger, 70 Duster, and a 67 Belvedere convertible that all need(ed) restored. If I spent all my money on this car, I would never be able to finish all the others...LOL.

 

[a68postcar]

I like it, I like it. 440-4spd E anything sounds like too much fun to me!!!!!!!!

 

[moparmaniac10]

New glass, new trim, new rubber, and new brakes.

 

[moparmaniac10]

Thanks ramenth for straightening out the pics.

 

[ramenth]

Thanks ramenth for straightening out the pics.

Hey, that's what I'm here for.

 

[moparmaniac10]

Here are some more. Got it back on the ground and the dash in it. Tomorrow will be the steering column and prep the motor for install next week.:icon_pidu:

 

[moparleo]

Very impressive.

 

[a68postcar]

pretty nice. pretty nice!

 

[moparmaniac10]

Didn't get to the engine as planned last week, but did get all the glass, window trim, package tray, rear quarter interior panels, sun visors, rearview mirrors, and the engine electrical all put in it. This week, gonna pull the trans and bolt everything up to the engine so I can put it all in at once. Anybody want to help?

 

[moparlee]

Can't help you out, but make a video when you start her up.

 

[Bill]

I'd be there in a heartbeat if you lived a little less than 1-1/2 days drive from Vermont. Looks great!

 

[Moparparts]

Looks great! Love that color! Now you are to the fun part.

 

[moparmaniac10]

Just ran into a huge snag. Just realized that the crank that is in the engine, which is already rebuilt, is not drilled for a 4 speed!!!! I had purchased the engine 5 years ago and it was sitting on a stand at the time and never came off until today. Then as I was trying to figure some things out, I realized the bellhousing I have is for a big block truck, not an e-body trans!!!! I am completely pissed right now and will probably throw this car in the corner for awhile and get started on my duster, which I know all the parts are good for it.
Does anyone have a solution other than tearing the engine apart and having the crank drilled out? I can't even fit a pilot bushing on the crank for the input shaft to go in to.

Also, does anyone need a big block bellhousing for a truck? I am having a bad day.

 

[moparleo]

The pilot bushing would be the only difference between a crank for an automatic and a stick is the pilot bushing hole. If the crank has a centering hole started in the end of the crank, you can drill it out the rest of the way without removing the crank from the engine. If the engine is still on the stand, call the local machine shop and explain what you need. It should be a minor job for them.

 

[moparmaniac10]

Just spoke to the machine shop that is doing the job. They want to pull the crank, drill it, and it needs to be rebalanced. One other guy that I know drilled the crank himself and did not rebalance it and the vibration was so bad that the engine almost grenaded itself. Thank God I know the machinist, so my cost will be minimal. It is going to the shop on the 19th.