Driver side window wont go up or down, so I want to remove the door panel. Removed all the screws on the sides, handle, mirror control.Everthing except the door lock. Got the screw holding it out, but it still keeping the panel from being removed. Does the armrest come off? that seems to be part of the issue.
72 Cuda door panel removel
- Thread starter mistreta
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terrywalker
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It just slides off the end of the shaft. Usually it comes off as I pull the panel off. It will not pull straight up off the shaft but slides off the end as you remove the panel.
Terry W.
Terry W.
Xcudame
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As terrywalker indicated, it will slide off with the panel. There's also wire clips that hold the door panel on the sides and bottom. Once those are loose, the door panel swings out at the bottom and you have to lift it up at the top about a 1/2" or so.
Those lock buttons are a pain if the bolt was over tightened. They get so squeezed together that they don’t release enough to come off normally. Once off I spread them enough to go on the typical way then only snug the bolt.
terrywalker
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Here's the push in clips at the bottom of the door panel Xcudame was referring to. You can also see a clip that is at the center at top of panel that holds the top of the panel on requiring you to lift the panel to clear the clip from the door.
Terry W.
Terry W.
Got the door panel off, stuck on the lock knob. Only to find another surprise. Man that stuff sticks.
I need to get the deadener off where the openings are, I think in the lower part of the inner panel, anybody got pics or info on location of openings?
I need to get the deadener off where the openings are, I think in the lower part of the inner panel, anybody got pics or info on location of openings?
pschlosser
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That is some decent mastic insulation. If you plan to put on a new layer, consider just cutting out the openings. That stuff is hard to peal off, and it was designed to be super sticky. The (presumed butyl) backing cleans up with acetone pretty well.
I'm guessing both doors and all under the carpet has this stuff. This is nice heat/sound insulation, but not very factory and an obvious issue when servicing the doors within.
I'm guessing both doors and all under the carpet has this stuff. This is nice heat/sound insulation, but not very factory and an obvious issue when servicing the doors within.
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
Terry, thanks for providing the picture of what I was talking about.
Mistreat, glad you got the door panel off. If you're needing to change out the regulator, you'll need to remove all of the heat/sound insulation because you need access to just about every dang hole in the door. Like pschlosser says, it's going to take a solvent like acetone to get all the "goo" off. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and be in a well ventilated area for that! Ketones are not good for your skin and lungs. Keep us posted. Best of luck. Working inside doors in one of my least favorite jobs!
Mistreat, glad you got the door panel off. If you're needing to change out the regulator, you'll need to remove all of the heat/sound insulation because you need access to just about every dang hole in the door. Like pschlosser says, it's going to take a solvent like acetone to get all the "goo" off. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and be in a well ventilated area for that! Ketones are not good for your skin and lungs. Keep us posted. Best of luck. Working inside doors in one of my least favorite jobs!
pschlosser
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I disagree. Cut out the openings in the door through the insulation, and discard the scraps you remove. Leave the rest of it.
terrywalker
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I only have 72 Challenger doors without panels right now. I don't know if they have the same openings on the inside as Cuda doors. Probably very close. If no one else has a photo of a Cuda door, I can take a photo of mine and post it.
Terry W.
Terry W.
pschlosser
Well-Known Member
Poke it with a stick, or a screw driver, to find the openings. You will be able to poke a screwdriver all the way through where there is an opening. This stuff cuts nicely with a utility box-cutter knife. There will be 4 openings and some head of bolts you'll want to expose.
I removed the dynamat sound deadener from the openings in the door panel. Thought maybe I could free the regulator up, but no luck, it binds up when I try to raise uo the window. Looks like a new regulator is needed.
Checked on line classic Industries has them, buy I spoke to a local Moparts dealer, he said he has had issues with Classic Industries regulators. Any suggestions on where else I could find a good one? $160 is what Classic wants.
Checked on line classic Industries has them, buy I spoke to a local Moparts dealer, he said he has had issues with Classic Industries regulators. Any suggestions on where else I could find a good one? $160 is what Classic wants.
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
Honestly your best bet is to find a good working used one. Perhaps someone here has one to sale. I'm pretty sure all the new ones are made in China. Try Summit Racing or Jegs for a new one. At least they'll exchange it without hassle if it's defective.
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